11 Easy Ways to Spot a Get Out of Debt Scam
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People get out of debt all the time, but they also tend to get back into debt eventually. In 2018, we conducted a nationwide survey that found 72% of people who budget say it’s helped them get out of debt in the past. But only 27% said it helped them stay debt free. Why is that?
If a budget is designed to help you achieve financial goals, then why can’t one of those goals be staying debt free? Can a budget help you stay out of debt once you achieve stability? We think it can. Here’s Debt.com’s step-by-step guide for how to stay out of debt using a simple household budget.
One last thing… it’s important to note that this is not a guide for avoiding debt entirely. We’re not against debt – we’re Debt.com, so debt is kind of our thing. We just believe people should debt responsibly. That’s what this guide teaches you how to do. Not so much how to stay out of debt, but really how to stay out of debt problems.
The number one thing that’s going to help you stay out of debt is money. You need something to use to cover all the things you’d normally use debt to cover. That means you need savings.
If you just got out of debt – whether you were facing challenges with credit cards or student loans or taxes or all of the above – you have an advantage here. You have money that was going to cover those debt payments that’s not being used for that anymore.
So, instead of spending or splurging, start saving. Take all the money you’re not using to cover debt payments and start putting it away for a rainy day.
Ideally, you want to save about 5-10% of your income in normal circumstances. But, if your goal is to stay debt-free and you just started saving, save as much as possible.
Another option is to simply ask your HR department to split your Direct Deposit between your checking a savings account. Either way, you make saving money completely automatic.
If you’ve never had an emergency savings fund, stat with a small reasonable goal. First, start with something like $1,000. That would cover most everyday unexpected expenses that always seem to come up. And even with limited income, on a well-balanced budget, you should be able to save up that much within a few months. This gives you a start goal to aim for.
Once you hit that goal, aim for $5,000. This will give you enough cushion to cover the most expensive car or home repairs. The more money you have to cover these unexpected expenses, the less likely you’ll be to slip into debt… even during a bad month when everything seems to break.
Covering most repairs and unexpected expenses is great, but eventually, you need an emergency fund that can cover even bigger unexpected life events. Namely, you need to be able to cover unemployment and illness.
This means you want to continue building your emergency fund to cover 3-6 months of budgeted expenses. The idea is that you could be out of work completely for a period of time without going into debt. You could effectively live off your savings.
With an emergency fund this size, you’ll enjoy a lot less financial stress over the unexpected. Getting fired, getting sick and being unable to work for a period of time, or just having the freedom to tell your boss you quit gives you true peace of mind.
If there’s one type of debt that’s all too easy to fall into, it’s credit card debt. Most people don’t fall off a credit card debt cliff. It’s usually a slow, but slippery descent into debt problems. So, if you’re going to stay out of debt then you need to follow the tips for staying out of credit card debt.
It’s worth noting that you can skip this step altogether by deciding not to use credit cards at all. However, they can be incredibly useful tools that can provide a lot of benefits. But you must be able to manage the debt. If you can’t, then swearing off credit cards may be the right choice.
One of the easiest ways to use credit cards without creating a risk of debt problems is to replace expenses that are already in your budget. No, this doesn’t mean to substitute income that you don’t have. It means that you use a credit card to pay for an expense that you’d need to pay anyway. Then you use the money you save to pay off the balance every month.
This gives you the ability to use credit to earn rewards without taking on any debt. It works especially well for bills like utilities, groceries, and gas for your car. These are all expenses that that many credit cards offer reward programs to cover.
Your goal should always be to maintain zero net credit card debt. That means you pay off everything you charge every month. You basically start and end every billing cycle with a zero balance.
Want to know the great thing about this strategy? You use all your credit cards interest-free. As long as you start a billing cycle at zero and pay off everything you charge at the end of the month, interest charges never apply.
You constantly build positive credit card history, you keep your total credit card debt near zero and you earn rewards. It’s the ideal place to be in the credit world.
Let’s say you have a credit card that offers cash-back on electronics purchases. You know you need a new laptop, so you want to earn the rewards on the purchase. What you want to do is save up for the purchase in advance so you can pay off the balance immediately. That way, you don’t offset the cash back you earn with interest charges.
Be aware that it takes about 2-3 billing cycles for interest charges to completely eclipse the rewards you earn. So, paying off the balance as fast as possible is key if you want to earn instead of paying out.
Credit card balances happen. Even with good planning, you may have an expensive month or need to make an unplanned big purchase. In this case, you’ll generate a balance that would carry over from month to month. You want to avoid allowing these balances to linger. Otherwise, you can begin a slow, gradual descent into debt.
So, if you start to carry balances, stop charging and make a plan to pay off your debt. At a minimum, you should implement a debt reduction plan. You can also call your creditors to negotiate lower interest rates or consider balance transfers. These solutions will help you minimize interest charges so you can get out of debt faster.
Transportation costs make up about 15-20% of the average household budget. While auto loans aren’t typically a big source of debt problems, expensive auto repairs are a common cause of credit card debt. So, it’s important to use your budget to manage auto loan debt and avoid credit card debt down the road.
Although no-money-down dealership offers may seem like a great bargain, they’re usually more expensive in the long run. You end up with higher monthly payments and higher total interest charges just to save a few bucks up front. By planning ahead to save up for a large down payment, you can keep both monthly and total costs lower.
It’s also worth noting that, in general, loans that you get through an auto dealership will consistently be more expensive overall. You’re usually better off going through your bank, credit union or preferred lender. Just like with a mortgage, you should shop for your auto loan first before you shop for the vehicle. This will help you see how much car you can afford and give you something to compare all those incentivized dealership offers.
Another key thing to note is that you can shop around for auto loans without causing any damage to your credit score. All credit applications for an auto loan made within a certain period of time (usually 14 days according to Experian) will count as a single credit inquiry. That means you can get real rates, as well as compare payments and total cost without hurting your credit score.
Another way to minimize monthly auto loan costs is to opt for a longer-term loan. However, it’s critical to realize that long-term auto loans aren’t usually the best value either. A longer term means more months to apply interest charges. Thus, it increases your total cost.
You also need to consider how fast most cars depreciate in value. Most vehicles lose value the minute you drive off the lot. If you opt for a 6 or 7-year auto loan term, then you want to trade in your car after five years, you’ll still have a balance left to pay. That means not only will you not get money on the trade-in. You could be stuck paying off the deficiency. Long-term auto loans also tend to have higher rates of default.
So, it’s generally a good decision to opt for the shortest term possible. Use your budget to assess what monthly payments you can afford. Aim for the highest payment possible that you can comfortably afford without creating financial stress. This will help ensure you get out of auto loan debt quickly with the lowest costs possible.
Extended warranties aren’t necessary and are usually just a cost drain. But even without an extended warranty, there are steps you can take to ensure auto repairs don’t turn into credit card debt. The easiest way is to devote part of your emergency savings fund to auto repairs.
A good way to generate the cushion you need is to divert funds into savings once you pay off your auto loan. You take the money you were paying towards your loan and put that full amount into savings every month. Invariably, cars tend to start breaking down right around the time you pay off your loan and the dealership warranty runs out. By increasing your savings once you pay off the loan, you can avoid credit card debt even if you need an expensive repair like replacing the transmission.
The other advantage of this strategy is that it helps you generate a bigger down payment for your next vehicle purchase. Once you’re ready for a new set of wheels, you’ll have all the money you’ve been saving to make the purchase without taking on an auto loan debt that will be a burden.
Credit card debt and even auto loan debt are considered “bad debt.” That’s because you don’t gain anything of value from taking out the financing (again, vehicles depreciate quickly). But there are two types of debt that are considered good debt:
Mortgages are good debt because you get an asset that usually increases in value over time. Student loans are considered good debt because the degree you earn increases your lifetime earning potential.
But just because a debt is good, it doesn’t mean that it’s good for your budget! Even good debt can go bad if you don’t manage it properly.
Unless they face something like unemployment or a death in the family, most people don’t struggle with a first mortgage in normal circumstances. Especially following the mortgage crisis of 2008, lenders are extremely careful about making sure that a homebuyer will be able to afford their loan.
Where most people get into trouble with mortgage debt is when they borrow against their equity. Equity is the value of a home minus the remaining balance on the mortgage. You can borrow against this equity through tools like home equity loans, Home Equity Lines of Credit (HELOCs) and cash-out refinancing.
Although these mortgage tools can be useful for getting significant amounts of extra cash, they also increase your risk of foreclosure. Taking out a second or even third mortgage – which is what happens when you borrow against equity – increases your risk of foreclosure significantly. If you fall behind on the payments, the lender can start a foreclosure action. This is especially risky with HELOCs because of the payments balloon after 10 years.
Even a cash-out refinance can be risky. You borrow against the current higher value of your home. But if the market takes a turn, you can wind up with a mortgage that’s upside down. That’s when you owe more than the home is actually worth.
This is why you need to be very careful when considering tapping the equity in your home. For example, using equity can seem like a good option to consolidate credit card debt. You can get a much lower interest rate. But most experts will tell you that it’s not worth the risk!
Student debt is now the second largest source of debt in the U.S. after mortgage debt. Americans have one and a half times the amount of debt in student loans that they have on credit cards. Student loans also have the highest rates of default than any other type of traditional debt. There’s currently a 90-day default rate of 11.2% on student loans. By comparison, the default rate on credit cards is just 2.54%.
The best thing you can do to manage student loan debt is to avoid it completely. You want to borrow as little as possible, whether you’re the one going back to school or you’re helping your kids earn a degree. This means putting in work to find smart ways to avoid taking out student loans for school:
If you need to take out loans, then subsidized federal student loans tend to be the most cost-effective option. With a subsidized loan, the government covers interest charges that accrue while you attend school, as well as during deferment. This helps keep the amount you need to repay low once you graduate. Just be aware that qualification for subsidized federal loans is based on need and income.
Whether you take out subsidized or unsubsidized federal loans or even private loans, you need to become an expert at loan repayment. Before you get even close to graduation, you should understand when repayment starts, how penalties and interest charges apply, and solutions you can use for faster, more cost-effective repayment, such as debt consolidation and student loan forgiveness. That way, when you graduate, you won’t have to rely on spotty communication with the lender to know what your best options are for repayment.
This tip specifically deals with loans. Often times people are happy to just make all their installment payments on time as scheduled. But there can be a good reason to make extra payments on some loans.
Extra payments are payments made outside of the set payment schedule. You already made a payment this month and your next payment is not due yet. But you make an extra payment in between. If you do this, then 100% of the extra payment you make eliminates principal debt. That’s the debt you actually owe, as opposed to interest charges.
For many loans, this can be extremely invaluable. If you eliminate a bill, then you free up cash that you can use for other things. But you must be smart about extra payments.
Using this reasoning, it often makes sense to make extra payments on personal loans, auto loans, and student loans. It makes less sense to do so on a long-term loan like a mortgage.
We mentioned in the section about auto loans that dealership financing is often more expensive. This logic applies to most loan offers you see. You often pay later for the financing incentives that you get now.
With any loan agreement, always make sure to review your Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement carefully. The Truth in Lending Act (TILA) protects borrowers from unfair lending practices. And one of the ways it does that is by requiring lenders to provide the Truth in Lending Disclosure. This is a form that you should receive from a lender detailing all the costs. Review it carefully before you sign the final loan agreement!
The disclosure should outline:
And remember, with auto loans, mortgages and student loans, multiple loan applications within a certain time frame will only count as one credit inquiry. This allows you to shop around and compare the exact rates and terms to find the best loan. A good rule of thumb is to get all applications done within a 2-week timespan.
Please note that this does not apply to personal loan applications. So, if you apply for a personal loan or consolidation loan, you can request quotes from multiple lenders, but you should only apply for one!
Fees are not your friends! You want to avoid them whenever possible. This means you should:
One that last one, it’s worth noting that credit cards with annual fees tend to have the most attractive cardmember benefits. There are cards that offer insane rewards programs, but you pay a few hundred dollars every year to use the card. In order to make the card worth the fee, you usually must use it a lot and spend big. You should only do this if you have the means to afford to manage that much debt. Otherwise, this is a recipe for debt disaster!
We’re not recommending that you go through a continual cycle of refinancing. That can lead to fees that we just told you to avoid, as well as too many inquiries on your credit report. But you should always keep attaining lower interest rates in the back of your mind.
These are some good times to refinance or – in the case of credit cards – negotiate lower interest rates:
Nobody likes to read contracts and loan agreements. They’re not exactly written in simple language. But ignoring them can lead to trouble once you’re in repayment. If you don’t feel comfortable reading your loan agreement, then find someone close to you that you can trust to help you. If all else fails, you can consult a lawyer. This is the main reason that people hire real estate attorneys when buying a home.
You should also take time to read your monthly statements, particularly on your credit cards. These statements show you your current rates (which are subject to change on most cards), as well as total interest charges you’ll pay on your current balance. Also, be aware that statements may include notices of rate increases, so it’s crucial not too just ignore this information.
If you follow the advice above, then you hopefully won’t need many of the debt solutions we offer, although we can help with things like consolidation and refinancing. We also offer credit resources that can help you achieve an excellent credit score.
Published by Debt.com, LLC